The question of how often to wash one's hair, if at all, has been asked for years — or at least since shampoo companies started aggressively advertising to humans all over the world.
After all, we as a species seemed to do pretty well long before the likes of Procter & Gamble and Unilever decided our locks needed to be shinier, scalps needed to be more “balanced”, and our ends less split.
And yet, the ever-present race to be “beautiful” has become one of the world’s largest industries [1]. Having nice hair, it would seem, is a huge part of the equation.
Some have gone so far as to start a “no-poo” movement, claiming that banishing shampoo from the bathroom altogether is the best thing one can do to achieve a healthy scalp [2]. The argument goes that because shampoo strips the scalp of any natural oils, the scalp begins to overcompensate.
Thus, a once-healthy scalp is out of balance, more regular shampooing is required, and the circle of Big Hair Care’s marketing strategy comes full circle.
Or so the theory goes.
In 2007, Sydney radio presenter Richard Glover was so taken aback by a claim made by interview subject (and Time columnist) Matthew Paris that he hadn’t washed his hair in over a decade that he set a challenge to his listeners.
Over 500 of Glover’s fans reported their results to the station, with a whopping 86% of them claiming that after 6 weeks of only rinsing their hair with water, their hair was “the same or better” [3].
Glover was so enamoured with his new no-poo life that he hasn’t used a drop of shampoo since [4].
So, with all these people claiming better heads since they ditched the ‘poo on one side of the fence, and the undeniable allure of a freshly lathered and conditioned scalp on the other, where does the verdict lie?
The truth is that there’s probably no “silver bullet” answer, but the type of hair you have, your routine, and how often you wash are all things that can affect a good hair hygiene routine.
Identifying your hair type
Understanding your hair type is the first step in crafting the perfect hair care routine. Hair types generally fall into three categories: fine, medium, and thick.
Fine hair is characterised by its small diameter and light weight, making it more prone to breakage and often appearing limp. Medium hair, with its moderate diameter and weight, strikes a balance and can be either straight or wavy. Thick hair, on the other hand, boasts a large diameter and heavy weight, often presenting as curly or coily.
To determine your hair type, try the strand test. Take a single strand of hair and gently stretch it between your fingers:
- If it breaks easily, you have fine hair
- If it stretches a bit before breaking, you have medium hair
- If it doesn’t break at all, congratulations — you have thick hair
Another method is to observe your hair’s texture. Fine hair tends to be straight and smooth, while medium hair can vary between straight and wavy. Thick hair often showcases a curly or coily texture.
Knowing your hair type can help you decide how often to wash your hair and what products to use to keep it looking its best.
If you have fine, thin hair, for example, you may notice that it tends to show grease and oil more readily, which might require more frequent washing to maintain its appearance.
Straight vs curly
Put simply, the oil on your scalp will have a very different effect on your look depending on your hair type.
Sebum, the oil that is naturally secreted from the scalp, builds up over time. This is why your hair is always a bit easier to manage a few days after a wash (lads with long hair will know this to be particularly true).
It’s also what gives long and straight hair a greasy look if left untamed for a long time.
Curly hair isn’t affected by the same build-up of sebum as straight hair as it doesn’t clump nearly as much [5]. In fact, curly and wavy hair generally benefits from being left longer than straight hair between washes.
If your hair grows straight, consider washing it 1-3 times a week at least to avoid getting too much build-up.
If you have curly hair, you can get away with less frequent washing, though another character that might be a good reason to maintain a good cleaning roster for your head fuzz is…
Scalp type
Your scalp type is just as important as your hair type when it comes to determining how often you should wash your hair. Scalp types generally fall into 3 categories: oily, dry, and combination.
If you have an oily scalp, you might find yourself battling greasy hair more often. In this case, frequent washing can help manage excess oil and keep your hair looking fresh.
However, be cautious not to overdo it, as washing too often can strip your hair of its natural oils, leading to dryness and potential irritation.
For those with a dry scalp, less frequent washing is usually the way to go. Opt for a gentle shampoo that moisturises and nourishes your scalp helping to prevent dryness and flakiness.
Combination scalps can be a bit trickier to manage. You might have an oily scalp but dry ends, or vice versa. In such cases, you may need to wash your scalp more frequently while using a moisturising conditioner on your ends to keep everything balanced.
Lifestyle factors also play a role in how often you should wash your hair.
If you work out regularly or live in a humid climate, you might need to wash your hair more frequently to keep it clean and fresh. Conversely, if you have a more sedentary lifestyle or live in a dry climate, you might get away with washing less often.
Ultimately, the key is to listen to your hair and scalp. If your hair feels dry or greasy, it might be time to adjust your washing frequency.
Experiment with different routines and products until you find what works best for you.
Remember, washing your hair too much can lead to dryness, tangling, and breakage, while not washing it enough can result in a buildup of oils, dirt, and dead skin cells (which can end up impacting your hair growth).
Finding the right balance is crucial for maintaining healthy hair and a healthy scalp.
Dandruff
Dandruff (aka seborrheic dermatitis) is a pesky condition, but not an incurable one.
In short, it’s a fungal infection that causes an itchy, flaky scalp, and leaves hundreds if not thousands of unsightly white flakes throughout your hair (and on your shoulders) [6].
And while we don’t know much about the exact causes of dandruff, we do know the best way to deal with it: zinc [7].
Semi-regular cleansing with a shampoo and conditioner that contains this magical ingredient (like Pilot's Hair Growth Shampoo & Conditioner) is essential for managing dandruff and might be unavoidable if you’re a sufferer of the condition.
This is just one example of why no-poo might not be for everybody.
Sweat
Sweat on your scalp helps carry sebum down to cover your hair and can make reasonably clean hair look greasy and unkempt sooner than it should.
If you have a big exercise routine and find your hair is suffering for it, it’s probably a good idea to limit huge workouts to once or twice a week and give your hair the royal treatment straight afterwards to avoid it getting excessively oily.
External factors
So if we don’t need to ever use shampoo, as many openly profess, then why use any kind of soap ever, at all?
The answer is simple: that’s gross.
While it’s true that shampoo strips the scalp of its natural oils, it also cleans everything else your hair collects in your day-to-day.
And while that might be all good and well for your average office worker, there are mechanics, tradies and farmers reading this laughing about the notion of not using industrial strength cleaner on their respective bonces.
Hair picks up all sorts of nasty stuff, from pollutants in the air to cigarette smoke, dirt, dust and even lice, hence, it’s a good idea to give it a wash with something more than water once in a while.
If you’d really like to bid your bottle of Pantene adieu but also like the idea of having nice hair, why not try shampooing with only a conditioner once a week?
Bottom line
The “no-poo” life might be a burgeoning trend, but it’s probably not for everyone (we all know at least one person who should definitely invest in some Selsun Blue).
And we know that scientifically speaking, washing your hair with astringent chemicals on the reg is going to mess with your scalp in some form or another, so there’s a good argument against hair being “too clean” as well.
Whichever camp you decide to plant your follicular flag, there’s a fair to middling chance that your current routine is already working for you.
And whether you want to say goodbye to shampoo forever for monetary or environmental reasons (or you just can’t be arsed anymore), or proudly stand by your bottle of Head & Shoulders X Old Spice collab (name a more iconic duo), nobody has ever died from an over or under-washed scalp.
But if you want to err on the side of caution, our advice is this: wash it at least once a week. Trust us, the people with whom you share elevators, Ubers and workspaces will be most grateful.
Dry shampoo can also be a convenient alternative to extend the time between washes without compromising on cleanliness.
Photo credit: Getty Images / Amelia Hanigan
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